How Much Does Changing a Pressure Reducing Valve Cost?

Unfortunately, Pressure Reducing Valves (PRVs) can be one of the more expensive plumbing repairs that we do. The PRV and shut off valve work (always done together and not optional) is typically quoted over the phone with some ranges built in for the unexpected. These quoted ranges are based on the replies to questions answered by the homeowner along with our experience in certain neighborhoods.

There are many things that impact the price of the PRV replacement, but a basic replacement for a PRV in the yard usually requires us to dig a hole in the flowerbed about 2’ wide and 3’ across. This working space is required for our tools. From there the depth of this excavation is determined by the depth of the line. The depth must be at least 12 inches lower than the line to fulfill some code and inspection requirements (pea gravel depths and clearance). After that, there are a few other things that could affect the overall final price.

• Depth of the water line: We have seen water lines as deep as 48 inches, requiring a hole depth in excess of 60 inches. That is extreme and usually only seen when considerable landscape and/or retaining wall work has been done—but it happens. That is not something that can be predicted and not something that is covered in the initial price range.
• Active water leak is present: Typically, mud from a leak in clay-type soil makes the digging conditions far more difficult. Also, the period of time the leak has been present will often impact the digging conditions due to constant or continual groundwater accumulation in the excavated area from soil saturation. When coupled with the excessive depth of a water line that is deeper than 18 to 24 inches, this adds considerable time to the job. Sometimes the leak is unknown and/or visible water never makes it to the surface but instead is just slow enough that the area surrounding the excavation is completely saturated with months of slow but continual water seepage.
• Locating the line and valve box location: Most water lines run along a certain path, especially when the water meter box is located somewhat in the center of the property. However, there are occasions when that line does not follow a normal path. Sometimes the valve box is so old that our probing devices cannot feel the lid. Other times the landscape is so extreme (trees or very mature shrubs) that we cannot access or locate the box. In the end, we can use equipment to trace the water line, but it typically adds cost. That’s because it is not easy—it can even be very difficult if the main yard line is PEX, poly, or PVC.
• Landscape age and type: The landscapers that home builders use will sometimes buy materials that, once matured, are small trees instead of shrubs. But even some of the larger variety shrubs can have massive and invasive root structures. More often than not, we run into multiple years of mulch on top of mulch. There are also times when professional landscape replacement jobs will add retaining walls and/or raise the grade level by adding soil and/or heavier mulch. All of these instances can create location and access issues and therefore more labor and/or specialized equipment. By code, this valve box must be easily accessible to the homeowner.
• Conditions of the soil dirt or area: Most of the North Texas soil is clay. The bigger issue that we run into is when this clay soil is wet, gummy, and sticky after the first couple of inches of topsoil. This is far more difficult to excavate. Also, we run into issues where the excavation area is very space-constrained due to a porch, sidewalk, or other architectural features. There could also be large accumulations of excess brick, rock, roots, or other obstructions that could create additional labor.
• Condition of the pipe once accessed: On occasion, we have come across copper pipelines that are bent, dented, angled, or damaged in some way, preventing a normal repair. There have been times when we have spent more time attempting to reshape damaged pipe than we did to excavate the area. There have also been times that additional outside-the-norm excavation has been required to uncover suitable sections of pipe that would allow for a proper repair. Other times, spacing and proximity of devices and junctions may require us to unsweat the solder joints instead of simply cutting the old pipe, fittings, and fixtures out of the way. There are also certain types of pipe that are not copper or PEX that require additional steps and efforts to make a suitable and proper repair (versus full line replacement). Different types of pipe are seen in different areas. Some of those less common products include PVC pipe, Qwest pipe, or other products that what we refer to as “black poly” or “blue poly,” etc.
• Overall time and labor: Each job usually takes on average between 2 to 2.5 hours. But sometimes these can exceed 3 or even 4 hours depending on complexity, conditions, depth, time of year, and water heater and expansion tank requirements. Obviously, extreme heat and cold can also affect the overall price due to increased time and difficulty.
• Interior PRVs: Interior PRVs that are located in the garage or utility closet tend to last longer before failing, often exceeding the normal 12-15 years that we see for ones that are buried. They also tend to be able to be adjusted longer than ones that are underground and obviously usually take less time to replace. These have their own set of complexities, but at least they are mostly visible and can be quoted without many what-if scenarios. Interior jobs usually are less costly and tend to be in newer homes where expansion tanks are already in place and/or are NOT required because the home has a tankless water heater.