Plumbing Resources
Got Questions? We Got Answers!
Our team is here to answer your plumbing questions. You can call us or review our answers to your frequently asked questions. Whether you are curious about the cost to fix a slab leak or you want to know if your toilet needs to be replaced, we have an answer for you!
If your shower or tub faucet doesn’t turn off even after turning the handle, you almost certainly have a shower cartridge issue. A shower cartridge, also called a stem, controls the water’s flow and temperature when you turn the handle.
Issues like hard water (common in North Texas), hot/cold pressure imbalances, and age can cause clogging or cause the rubber O-ring in the shower cartridge to wear out.
About 60% of the shower cartridge issues we see at Earl’s Plumbing are with Moen brand cartridges. For whatever reason, these cartridges are far more prone to problems than other brands. Delta brand cartridges are the next most common type we replace. Our team carries replacement cartridges on our trucks, so we can fix the problem fast!
In some cases, you can increase your water pressure by upgrading your showerhead, replacing your shower cartridge, or cleaning your showerhead to get rid of sediment buildup that blocks water flow. But if you’ve done these steps and still aren’t happy with your water pressure, there is a solution!
Many homeowners don’t know that there is a quick fix for low water pressure in your shower, and our team is happy to provide it.
Almost all showerheads are designed with a device called a water restrictor that reduces the amount of water coming through your showerhead by about half. This is in place so that the manufacturers can sell the showerheads anywhere, including states with low-flow laws and restrictions. Texas is not one of those states, so our team can remove this device as part of your tub/shower repair service. Just ask your technician while they’re at your home.
Do note that this process is not reversible—once we’ve removed the water restrictor, we can’t put it back. So, be sure that you want to double your water pressure before making the decision to remove this part.
In some cases, water will start flowing through a backed-up or slow-draining shower or bathtub again eventually. However, all that soap, grease, oil, skin, and hair has to go somewhere.
If you’re dealing with tub or shower clogs, our team is well-prepared to clear them quickly! Don’t hesitate to give us a call if you’re dealing with stubborn or frequent shower clogs.
A basic toilet repair is one of the more common and simple things we do as plumbers. We usually get a call from someone saying “my toilet is not flushing right,” “my toilet does not fill back up,” or “my toilet just starts to randomly fill up even when nobody has used it.” And everyone has experienced the good old clogged toilet.
This situation can feel disgusting or embarrassing and sometimes both. Some plumbing companies refuse to do a basic toilet repair. Worse, they may just overcharge in the hopes of avoiding the call altogether. The reason is that this job is not especially profitable. It generally adds little to the top sales line, and there are a lot more jobs out there that pay a lot more for the same amount of time.
However, at Earl’s Plumbing, we take all plumbing-related jobs, both big and small. Even though toilet jobs are usually simple, we teach our plumbers several tricks, tweaks, and adjustments that make the finished outcome more complete. And you’d be surprised how easy it can be to mess up. We’ve seen some pretty embarrassing DIY projects and handyman work—we have a “wall of shame” in the office for that reason.
A basic toilet repair for Earl’s Plumbing consists of us replacing the toilet fill valve, flapper, and supply line. Because we have learned from our past mistakes, we do not do just one or the other. We do all three or none at all.
If you’re not convinced whether the flapper should be changed or not, look at it this way: it is a part that costs less than $5 and we’ve already included it in the price of every repair job. We do it for peace of mind and because we know the last thing you want is us coming back to your house two to three days later on a warranty call.
At Earl’s Plumbing, our team always replaces the toilet fill valve and supply line at the same time as we replace the flapper. That said, if we are being honest, homeowners with a little bit of mechanical skill and some basic tools can probably make this repair themselves.
It just might take you two or three times longer than it takes us, plus the trip to and from the store.
But, if you are not as mobile or flexible as you once were, you don’t have the time, or you lack confidence, Earl’s Plumbing is always happy to help.
Sometimes, the toilet’s “guts” are just too far gone to make a basic repair. Maybe the rubber parts are so old they don’t possess any more elasticity, causing the tank to leak through to the floor. In that case, a full tank rebuild may be required. That is the next level up from basic toilet repair.
A full disassembly of the tank and a rebuild of everything inside can be time-consuming. Plus, there is always the possibility that the toilet is so old that the universal parts won’t even work. A full tank rebuild is never the most ideal. We will do it, but we can install a brand new and far better toilet for just slightly more.
A new toilet installation will probably take us less time to complete with a far better long-term outcome. But in any case, sometimes a full tank rebuild makes sense and sometimes it does not. We’ll always discuss your options with you candidly before we make any decisions.
This type of problem and repair should be less common than it is. Over 90% of these repairs are a direct result of bad workmanship and/or poor-quality materials. We typically see this problem after a remodel where the tile guy watched a YouTube video and decided he could install the toilet for an extra $100. Or it could happen due to a DIY toilet repair kit job gone wrong.
On occasion, you might have a bad installation from the construction phase that is just now appearing in the ceiling below. Sometimes it takes years for the leak to finally blow out the cheap wax ring and become visible. Ultimately, improper installation is the primary reason for the bulk of these types of “leaking base” repairs. Many or most have to do with the flange, closet bolts, and/or flooring not being installed properly.
There is a proper workaround for this if you know what you are doing—but that is the reason plumbers exist!
If your toilets brand is one of the following, then it is either builder-grade or has minimal engineering and quality:
-ProFlo
-Mansfield
-Gerber
-Western
-Vortens
-AquaSource
-Glacier Bay
There are a few others, and we’ll let you know if we see one in your home. We see firsthand issues with these toilets every day.
We have even seen them flood entire houses on multiple occasions.
Of course, you can find articles on the internet that say these brands are trustworthy. But that’s simply paid advertising—it’s pseudo-journalism, not real-world experience.
There is no repair for a bad or poor-quality toilet. There is only one remedy for this and that is to replace the toilet with a quality name brand like Kohler or American Standard.
As a service and convenience for you, Earl’s Plumbing stocks Kohler toilets in our shop, and we keep at least one Kohler toilet on every truck. We chose Kohler because of the quality of the product, the flushing power, and the relatively low price in comparison to comparable quality toilets.
In other words, we feel that our toilet is an incredible value when you combine the overall quality, features, appearance, and price.
At Earl’s Plumbing, we are very transparent, so we will say this: we often feel that Kohler as a brand is slightly overrated and too often overpriced. However, their toilets, with the slow-close seat and proprietary “AquaPiston” flushing system, have our overwhelming approval. The Kohler toilet that we stock has traditionally been the top-selling replacement toilet in America.
That said, we will install any toilet that you provide. We just ask that you inspect the toilet for damage upon being unloaded to avoid any unnecessary trips and charges. Toilets with elements that make installation more complicated will cost more than a basic install. These include features like heated seats, self-flushing, bidet sprayers, boltless designs, etc.
Conversely, the price for installing lower-end, generic branded toilets such as AquaSource, Mansfield, Glacier Bay, or similar brands will also be adjusted up accordingly. That’s because they are of inferior quality and harder to assemble, install, and level. In other words, a lower-priced toilet may be less expensive initially, but in the end, it could be more total out of pocket than a slightly higher-priced name brand of superior quality.
The pipes that carry sewage away from your toilet are actually only about three or four inches wide. That’s not so big when you think about it!
Add excess toilet paper and foreign objects to the mix, and you’ve got yourself a tough clog. Some of the most common causes of toilet clogs are:
-Foreign objects
-Feminine hygiene products
-“Flushable” products
-Toilet paper
-Other clogged pipes
-Mineral buildup
Yes, even wipes labeled “flushable” should not be flushed down the toilet. These materials can easily cause blockages in the system, and they aren’t meant to break down like toilet paper. NEVER put anything down your toilet except toilet paper. If a clog deeper in your plumbing is causing problems or you can’t figure out why your toilet is clogged, call on the pros at Earl’s Plumbing.
We use drain augurs, sometimes referred to as snakes, to clear showers and tubs that won’t drain. While homeowners can purchase hand-operated augurs at big box stores, we highly recommend trusting the pros to do this work instead.
While the method is simple, it’s difficult to get right without practice and training. You can save yourself a lot of mess and hassle by trusting the pros at Earl’s Plumbing!
If you have a home in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, your AC line likely dumps out its condensation into your bathroom drains. Various municipal codes allow for this configuration and even require it.
If you’ve noticed a problem with slow-draining sinks and your air conditioner isn’t cooling your house as well as it usually does, the two problems could be connected.
Dirt, dust, pet dander, and other airborne contaminants can get trapped by moisture in the air. As the condensation drips from your AC’s evaporator coil, it can carry this debris with it, leading to a clog in your condensate line. And because these lines are tied into your home’s other plumbing systems, you can quickly end up with a backed-up bathroom sink drain on your hands.
Yes, we recommend calling a licensed plumber for any faucet repair work because these leaks can be deceptive in their apparent simplicity. Determining the exact cause of a faucet leak can be tricky: it could be worn-out parts, loose connections, or damaged pipes.
A professional plumber will know what to look for, how to fix it, and provide a guarantee on all work in case anything goes wrong in the future.
First, our certified plumbers will assess the current faucet’s condition and placement, as well as inspect the plumbing connected to it. This will help us determine if any modifications are necessary to ensure a proper fit for the new faucet.
Next, using the existing water shut off valves we will terminate the water flow and disconnect the old supply lines. Doing this allows us to determine the condition of the shutoff valves and whether they are operating properly. If they are older or not fully functional then we will most likely need to replace them, and that option will be discussed at that time. From there, we remove the old faucet, all of its mounting hardware, and clean under the old faucet location. Usually, this part is pretty basic and standard. We then assemble the new faucet, mount the faucet into its new home and make the proper water connections.
Once the replacement is complete, we will test the supply line connections and double check the shutoff valves AGAIN to ensure everything is working together. Before we leave, we will make sure every component of the new faucet is working correctly while visibly inspecting the tubular drainage pipes for any signs of concern.
If your garbage disposal is just humming but not grinding up food, it is likely jammed. Many jams happen as a result of what you put down the drain. Yes, your garbage disposal is designed to grind up food waste.
However, it can’t handle everything—there are actually many foods you shouldn’t put down your disposal, such as:
-Grease and oils
-Heavy starches or foods that can expand with water, such as rice and potatoes
-Eggshells (contrary to popular belief)
-Fibrous vegetable husks and peels
-Plastics of any kind
These items frequently cause garbage disposal clogs, both in the appliance itself and in your home’s plumbing. If this happens, don’t keep running the disposal, which could damage the blades. Instead, call a professional. We can use special tools to clear the blockage safely!
One of the most important things to remember about cleaning out your drains is that the chemical drain cleaners you purchase at the store can be very harmful! Yes, they eat away at the clogged residue blocking your pipes, but there are two problems: they often don’t remove the clog completely and the chemicals can be very dangerous to your pipes and your health.
You should always use chemical-free or DIY drain cleaners—most are made from household items you likely have already.
One of the first things to try is baking soda, vinegar, and hot water. These substances combine to lift, loosen, and carry away any debris collected into a clog. Other tactics like wire hangers can also work to remove the clog. In the end, take note of whether you’re able to completely remove the clog. A plumber will have high-tech cameras to make this process much easier.
Most drain clogs can be prevented with some simple drain maintenance. For example, vinegar or dish soap can work well to periodically clear out grease and food residue from your kitchen drain. Just pour some down the drain while hot water is running once every week or so. It may not stop all clogs, but it sure will help!
Also, remember to use that drain strainer to catch bigger pieces of food and debris. Never pour oil or grease down your kitchen sink, either—instead, let it cool inside a sealable container, then throw that container away in the trash.
First, we evaluate the situation entirely to ensure we don’t make the clog worse or push it deeper into your main drain line. Next, we’ll use some special tools—like a drain snake—to try and dislodge and disband the clogged area.
If we can’t solve the problem that way, we might upgrade to more advanced technology like a pipe camera to get our eyes on the problem. Rest assured that we won’t leave until we figure out a way to free your plumbing from that stubborn clog!
Costs can vary, but at Earl’s Plumbing, we are more than happy to provide you with an estimated price over the phone. Simply give us a call and describe the situation. If we can’t diagnose the problem and provide an accurate estimate over the phone, we’ll come by to inspect the situation as soon as possible.
Because the washer valves are fused to the box, this repair can be fairly involved. The process includes turning off the water, cutting pipes, and doing new junction work on two water lines and a drain. This process can be complicated if your house is older and/or doesn’t have a standard box setup. But we’ll always walk you through what we’ll need to do before work begins!
If you’ve disconnected a fridge to move it or replace it and the water won’t stop dripping out of it, it’s likely that your ice maker valve box is corroded. Because this shut-off valve is rarely ever used, it often accumulates scale build-up and loses its tight seal.
If this happens to you, call the team at Earl’s Plumbing right away. We’ll walk you through how to shut off water to your kitchen and be on-site quick to replace your ice maker valve box!
Here in Texas, most homes are built with an all-in-one laundry box that houses the hot and cold water supply hoses, their shut-off valves, and the washing machine drain. The shut-off valves can become corroded over time (typically about 10-12 years), leading to leaks when you disconnect the washer.
The valves are fused to the plastic box, so you’ll need a licensed plumber to come and remove the whole assembly.
Our team will open a hole beneath the washer valve box, make the necessary replacements, and then put in an access panel instead of simply patching the drywall. This ensures that when you have to remove and replace these valves again, you’ll have easy access—saving you time and money!
If you’re interested in a reverse osmosis filter in your kitchen, the best place to install it is often under your sink. The kitchen plumbing under sinks can usually be rerouted and connected to the system and the source of filtered water will be close to where you already get water from.
These are called point-of-use (POU) systems because they are located where you use them instead of in the garage or attic like other appliances.
The installation process should be completed by a professional plumber to ensure the system is ready to operate correctly. Our team knows how to install the system, reconnect plumbing, prevent leaks, and handle any installation surprises that come our way. Plus, in situations where under-sink space is an issue, garbage disposals complicate the installation, or alternate actions have to be taken, an expert is your most valuable resource.
Yes, RO systems produce a certain amount of wastewater during the filtration process, which is typically drained.
However, many modern systems come with water-saving features that significantly reduce the amount of wastewater generated.
We strongly suggest having a licensed plumber (not a handyman) install your RO system, as mistakes are common and easy to make. Leaks or drips are even more common due to the type of connections that are predominantly used in these systems.
All RO systems have a faucet or a spout. If there is not a hole already available for that faucet, in most cases that is not a problem. Unlike most plumbers, we have the tools and expertise to core a new hole in your countertop OR create a suitable workaround.
One thing to note: do not be surprised if the installation labor cost is more than the system itself. The manufacturers sell these systems at a loss because the replacement filters are proprietary. That’s where they make their money long-term. Once you go through the hassle and cost of installation, you are then vested for the years to come.
The frequency of filter replacement depends on the specific system and usage. Generally, pre-filters should be changed every 6-12 months, while the RO membrane should be replaced every 2-3 years.
Always consult your system’s manual for specific recommendations.
Regular maintenance for an RO system includes periodic filter replacements, system inspections, and occasional cleaning or sanitizing.
Proper maintenance helps ensure the system’s optimal performance and extends its lifespan.
Water hardness is measured by high levels of naturally occurring minerals in the water. Here in Texas, our natural water is ranked in the top 10 hardest water in the country!
That means all the water running through your plumbing, appliances, and into your body has a high mineral count. In all likelihood, your home will be affected if you don’t have a water softener.
While minerals aren’t harmful to your health when ingested, they can have serious effects on your hair, skin, plumbing, and appliances. Signs that you might be struggling with hard water in your home include:
-Dry or brittle hair
-Dry, irritated, or itchy skin
-Mineral spots on your dishes
-Limescale buildup in your pipes and plumbing fixtures
-Damaged laundry
-Cloudy tap water
Yes! In fact, many homeowners use a water softener and filtration system together to ensure the highest quality water possible.
The softener removes minerals, while the filtration system removes impurities.
It’s recommended to have your water softener or filtration system serviced at least once a year to ensure optimal performance.
However, the frequency of service may depend on factors such as water usage, water quality, and the type of system you have.
Yes, we offer a warranty on all our water softener and filtration system installations and repairs.
The length of the warranty varies depending on the type of service and the product used.
The frequency of resin replacement depends on how much water your household uses and the hardness of your water. You need to replace the resin every 10-15 years.
The frequency of resin replacement depends on how much water your household uses and the hardness of your water. You need to replace the resin every 10-15 years.
A water softener can remove hard water minerals but may not remove other contaminants such as chlorine and lead.
A water filtration system can help remove these additional contaminants and improve the overall quality of your water.
We know we may sound biased when we say yes—you should call a licensed plumber to install your dishwasher.
But let us explain why we always make this recommendation.
-Safety: Dishwashers require both electrical and plumbing components to work. Clearly, water and electricity don’t mix well—so if your appliance isn’t plumbed properly, the results could be catastrophic. Even if leaks don’t affect the electrical system, they can cause extensive water damage.
-Complexity: While you can purchase DIY dishwasher installation kits from big box stores, these components aren’t going to be high quality. Plus, there are many plumbing components to consider when installing a dishwasher that you or a handyman may not be familiar with. Our professional plumbers know them all and will make sure they’re in proper working order before we leave.
-Manufacturer’s Warranty: Improper installation can void your manufacturer’s warranty, meaning that if you should need to repair or replace the unit, you’ll be out of pocket for it.
Gas work is always a plumber’s job, which is why it’s important to get us involved from the start. First, you want to make sure that your home is set up to run a gas stove—you’ll need to have gas lines installed or extended into that part of your kitchen.
Once you know that you’re all set up to run your new stove, it’s important to have a licensed, bonded, and insured plumber to properly connect it. We’ll make sure that your new appliance is up to code, meets all safety requirements, and that all auxiliary parts (such as gas shut-off valves) are of high quality and in good working order.
If you buy a gas stove, range, or cooktop from a big box hardware store, look at the fine print of any “free installation” offers.
In some cases, the workers they send out will unbox the appliance, put it in place, and plug it in, but they may not be qualified to hook up the gas. If that happens to you, you can rely on Earl’s Plumbing to get you up and running right away!
On some occasions, a slight countertop alteration may be required to make the new unit fit into the opening. We have the tools, equipment, and experience to make these alterations but we strongly advise that you check the measurements—including the depth—prior to purchasing. More importantly, we can make the hole slightly larger but we can’t make the hole in the countertop smaller. You would be surprised how often this happens!
There are many natural gas appliances in Texas homes, as natural gas is a popular source of heat and energy. Stoves, ranges, natural gas grills and cooktops are the most common gas appliances that we will install.
Other systems that run on natural gas include some types of water heaters, tankless water heaters, fireplaces, clothes dryers and furnaces.
Anytime you’re dealing with a natural gas line—from repairs to relocations—you need to involve an expert plumber. Natural gas, while an excellent fuel source, can be extremely hazardous. Put your trust in a team that gives you peace of mind and will make your safety a priority.
A typical slab leak repair (or sewer or water line leak repair) runs between $5,000 and $12,000, with the average being somewhere in the middle. And that’s just for the plumbing work part.
Without the right endorsement or coverage on your homeowner’s insurance policy, this could be your out-of-pocket expense.
Water leak repairs are never welcomed. However, as a homeowner, if a significant mystery leak is in your future, the preferred one would be on the outside of your home. The obvious reason is that your risk of property damage decreases significantly if the leak appears in the yard versus under a cabinet or under the slab.
Although many interior leaks and the subsequent property damages they cause are covered by insurance—if you have the proper insurance endorsements—not everything in the “scope of work” is covered. The out-of-pocket deductible can also be significant. So, don’t panic—simply call Earl’s to get professional leak repairs as quickly and effectively as possible.
The most common types of water distribution pipe for main lines in the Frisco, McKinney, and Plano areas are copper pipe or PEX tubing. Most homes and businesses built between 1985 to 2015 will have a main line made of copper pipe.
Although PEX tubing arrived in the US in the mid-80s, its use did not become common until around 2015. From about 2015 to 2018 there was a good mix of both copper pipe and PEX tubing, sometimes with both types being used in the same structure.
In addition, it is pretty common to have a main water line in an alternative product (discussed in more detail below) but have copper pipe throughout the house.
PEX tubing has slowly but surely started to dominate the water pipe distribution market and in houses built from 2020 on, it would be very rare to find anything other than PEX tubing on a residential job.
Why does it matter what your water line is made of? Because it affects the overall longevity of the water line, and it could also affect the cost of the repair due to various difficulties and material scarcities.
PEX pipe is becoming the primary water supply pipe in most homes and many businesses, not just in north Texas but nationwide. Its advantages far outweigh its disadvantages when it comes to the other code-compliant products.
It, too, comes in long rolls, allowing one continuous line from the meter to the main water shut-off. That means no fittings or weak points. The PEX product is incredibly durable and resilient yet flexible.
The biggest issue from a plumber’s standpoint is that in the unlikely event there is a leak, we cannot easily trace and mark the line. That’s because PEX is a plastic material. Checking for leaks in this way creates considerable difficulty and requires being very creative.
When properly installed using the right tools, equipment, fittings, and crimp rings, PEX pipe has more advantages and fewer limitations. More specifically, we use high-quality barbed brass fittings, shut-offs, and Apollo “Copper Pro” crimp rings. You will never find an inferior Sharkbite “push to connect” fitting OR “clamp ring” on any of our trucks.
We won’t lie: replacing your main water line is one of the more invasive plumbing jobs that we perform. There is a considerable amount of digging, and when there is an active leak, sometimes that digging is muddy. Because of the size and scope of what needs to happen to install a new main water line properly, it’s usually pretty obvious that something significant happened. And almost without fail, the whole scene is right in the middle of the front yard.
Because the trench must be a certain depth, there are always mounds of dirt, and the job usually takes multiple days from start to finish. That said, we always take extra precautions by laying plastic and tarps down on the yard and concrete for some protection. This allows the sod to recover faster, but inevitably it does take a little time to become seamless. The same applies to concrete patches on driveways and sidewalks—there is always at least a slightly noticeable appearance difference.
Leaks can develop in bathroom vanity, kitchen, and utility sinks for a number of reasons.
-Some of the most common causes our team encounters are:
-Improperly installed plumbing or loosely connected water supply lines
-Misalignment caused by garbage disposal vibrations
-Dislodged tubular joints (common when moving items around under the sink)
-Corrosion of fittings and seals like slip nuts, washers, and drain putty
-Clogs putting pressure on the drain pipe, leading to gaps or fractures
Our team is trained to identify the leak at its source and get it fixed for good. Believe it or not, it’s our goal to keep you from having to call us back again and again. That’s why we always perform comprehensive inspections and repairs the first time!
Although homeowners can tighten the slip nut or use a patch to fix leaking pipes in some cases, these are just temporary solutions to bigger problems.
Besides, disassembling and repairing a leaking sink involves a degree of plumbing skill, and can quickly lead to water flooding if anything goes wrong. Avoid the risk of water damage and fix the problem for good by calling the experts at Earl’s Plumbing.
Yes, clogs in your sink can lead to leaks, which may require drain pipe repairs. If you have a clog, obviously water can’t go all the way down the drain line. Instead, it sits in your plumbing lines, which can add undue pressure and stress.
Over time, this pressure could result in small cracks and fissures, allowing the water to escape. These cracks are only made worse if you use store-bought drain-clearing liquids—after all, the chemicals in these products are corrosive.
We never recommend these products for drain clogs. Instead, you can try physically removing the obstruction or pouring in a mixture of baking soda and vinegar, followed by hot water. If these methods don’t clear the clog, call your local plumber for professional drain cleaning or repair.
Simply stated, it is a code requirement. If you have a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) being added and/or it is being replaced due to age or problems, then we will also need to inspect your water heater for the presence of an expansion tank. Depending on its age and condition it might need to be replaced.
Having or installing a PRV creates what plumbing code defines as a “closed system.” Without getting into the semantics of what that means, just know that when this code was adopted around 2017, thermal expansion tanks were then required to be installed when a storage tank hot water heater was present.
So, if you have a traditional storage tank water heater(s), then by code you must also have an expansion tank. In contrast, an expansion tank is NOT required for a home with a tankless water heater. That said, it’s not a bad idea to have one if excessive water pressure is common in the water entering your area.
Every year, as the weather warms up and people start getting out in their yards here in Frisco, we get a multitude of calls for leaking or ruptured hose spigots. The difference between a leak and a rupture is pretty easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for.
-Hose Spigot Leaks: Most leaks occur due to age. Because a hose spigot is a gate valve that has a limited life, it is designed to be replaced. We typically see most hose spigots lasting problem-free for about 5-7 years, but that’s not a hard fast rule. We have seen them last for much longer than that and also much less. But if you have water coming out of any part of the hose spigot fixture other than where it is supposed to, then it might be time to call Earl’s Plumbing. Keep in mind that a slow, uncontrolled drip can lead to a complete rupture if not fixed.
-Hose Spigot Ruptures: Ruptures are freeze-related damage. They are caused by water that can’t fully drain or an accumulation of a leak inside the hose spigot that freezes. The freezing water expands inside the copper pipe portion of the hose spigot and creates a split in the pipe. This type of damage usually cannot be identified until you turn the spigot on.
Sometimes, the break is not severe enough until a hose is attached, creating back pressure.
If you see water coming from out of the brick, where the brick and concrete slab meet, or from the weep holes, you have a problem that needs to be addressed. If caught early enough, the water will not migrate inside the home where it can cause interior damage. But that all depends on how quickly the rupture is identified.
There are some instances when a hose spigot leak can be repaired. However, repair is no longer a service we offer. That’s because there is very little overall value for either party involved in repairing a hose spigot versus a full replacement.
The reason for this decision is that the repair option usually takes longer to diagnose and complete than it does to replace the entire hose spigot. In addition, the first repair does not always fix the entire issue. Even if it does, the work often creates enough new pressure that another area will begin to leak. More often than not, the repair option fixes the problem temporarily, only for another leak to materialize.
In addition, many of the factory parts needed to make a proper repair are not available for purchase. To avoid this temptation, we do not even carry repair parts for hose spigots on our trucks.
In the end, there is far more value to the customer in replacing the entire hose spigot that will last multiple years versus a repair that may only last a few months to a year. Because we might replace multiple hose spigots in a day or even multiple spigots at one home, each of our trucks is supplied with multiple quantities of the various sizes required for almost any job.
We always recommend calling a plumber to replace your hose spigot because of the unexpected problems you may encounter once you get in there. A mistake can quickly lead to a much more costly repair.
But if you are going to attempt to DIY this relatively inexpensive replacement, don’t waste your time or money buying a replacement hose spigot from one of the big box retail home improvement stores. They are either poor quality and/or do not meet the various city code requirements. Earl’s Plumbing will not use these cheap spigots and neither should you.
A yard hydrant performs the same function as a hose spigot, meaning it acts as an exterior point to supply water to an outdoor area. It will also allow you to attach a water or garden hose. However, the appearance, functionality, and usually the location are what make them different.
A yard hydrant connects to the water line below the ground. If properly installed, it should be packed in pea gravel to allow for self-draining and prevent freeze ruptures. To operate these unique shut-off valves, you usually lift or turn the handle up or down. This mechanically operates a metal rod that opens and/or closes a plunger-style device below the soil surface.
Yard hydrants can usually be found in barns, stables, greenhouses, and/or where a water line was run to an open area of land, such as a pasture, field, golf course, or garden. However, they’re also an option for a water hose connection should you have a salt tablet water softener system that was installed after construction.
You cannot water your grass, plants, shrubs, or container gardens with the water that comes from a salt tablet softener system because it is salt water. Unless your hose spigots were connected and/or bypassed from the system at the time of construction or during the softener installation phase (unlikely), then a yard hydrant teeing off of your main water line BEFORE the softener line may be your only option for a clean, fresh, salt-free water source where you need it.
Hose spigot leaks are naturally going to materialize with age. You can prolong the spigot’s life with some routine maintenance if you are truly DIY savvy.
But to avoid the major ruptures that can lead to property damage or more costly repairs, you MUST prepare for the freezing weather with a few simple steps:
-Remove or disconnect ALL water hoses, pool fill lines, soaker hoses, Y splitters, hose manifolds, and/or irrigation connections.
-Make sure that there are no existing leaks or drips of any kind, regardless of the rate. TIP: If small drips or leaks are present, there are some nutted areas that can be lightly snugged or tightened. If that does not stop the leak, call us for a replacement.
-Purchase and properly install a hose spigot cover, available at the local big box home store. The hard-shell foamed cones seem to be the best option.
When using your hose spigot for the first time after a freeze, connect a hose and let it fill up. Then wait 20-30 seconds or so before walking away to ensure you do not have water coming out of the wall under the hose spigot and/or near the slab.
There is no hard-set timetable or expected lifespan for a DCV. Some plumbing sites say 5 years. But in reality, it is probably closer to 10 or even 15 years if installed properly and maintained.
But the DCV’s lifespan also greatly depends on the environment and conditions where it is located. If yours is completely buried in mud and clay and/or stays flooded, wet, and exposed to soil minerals, then 5 years might be accurate. A certain amount of scale build-up from our municipal water supply can also take a toll. But if properly installed, there is no reason that a DCV should not last 10+ years.
Most if not all municipalities in Texas require annual registration, testing, and certification on ALL backflow devices that are installed in a commercial business (restaurants, bars, hotels, offices, etc.). The fact that the State requires this annually for businesses should underline the importance of a properly installed and functioning DCV and its value in keeping our drinking water safe.
From a residential standpoint, as of early 2023, only some cities are requiring regular testing and certification for DCVs and other types of backflow devices. The testing frequency ranges from annual to every few years based on the municipality.
For example, Lubbock requires residential DCVs to be inspected, assessed, and certified every 3 years. We expect more cities to require this in the future. Some cities also require backflow protection devices on salt tablet softeners and other types of filtration systems. For more information on these types of products, please see Water Softeners & Filtration.
When it comes to water leaks, there are two kinds: the obvious and the obscured. The obvious leaks are the ones that you can physically see, like drips from a faucet or unexplained water near a fixture or wall. Then there are the obscured leaks. Those are the ones that show up as a high water bill, a sound in the wall, or a wet spot in the yard.
The obscured or “not so obvious” leaks are where the DCV comes into play and why it must be functioning. The worst-case scenario is that you have a slab leak under the house. But to determine this we must be able to isolate the house from the irrigation system and then from the yard line. So, the DCV must be in good working order to be able to remove the irrigation system from the equation.
For the most part, there are four types of water leaks that involve the DCV and/or are common in the yard. Three of those are the responsibility of a licensed plumber and one is for the licensed irrigator or homeowner, depending upon the complexity.
Unless you own a well on your own property, it’s almost impossible to fully control what’s in your water without a home water filtration system. Even then, well water can carry its own downsides—like hard water.
Despite the city’s efforts to maintain a healthy standard of drinking water for the community, things do sometimes slip into the water supply. Additionally, Frisco’s level of acceptable presence of a chemical or mineral in the water may be too high for your family’s health or taste. Some chlorine present in the water is acceptable, but when it’s present at too high of a concentration, that may affect the taste of your drinking water in a negative way.
Several filtration systems are available to eliminate impurities from your home’s water line. While they may seem self-explanatory, each type functions differently, allowing certain components to pass while blocking others.
To determine the right choice for your home, just ask the certified and trained plumbers at Earl’s Plumbing for a recommendation!
-Backwashing Filters: Backwashing filters, also called media or backwash filters, are multipurpose water treatment systems that employ a tank with some form of loose filtering material. Water flows through the tank, allowing the removal of harmful particles and chemicals. Near the end of the filtration cycle, the water is pushed in the opposite direction.
-Cartridge Filters: Cartridge filtration systems utilize one or more filter cartridges to remove specific contaminants based on the needs of your home. Typically, cartridges require replacement every 6 to 12 months. This is because captured contaminants accumulate over time, and can cause problems if not removed promptly.
-Carbon-Based Filters: An economical and low-maintenance water filtration option is the carbon-based filter, which removes harmful particles from the water by absorbing them. The activated carbon in the system attracts and holds onto the contaminants. These filters are particularly effective at removing chlorine from your home’s water supply. Another benefit is that you can install them alongside other point-of-entry (POE) filters.
Yes, unfortunately, they do. In the DFW area, many contractors install undermount stainless steel sinks using a one- or two-part epoxy. Over time, the weight of your pots and pans or vibrations from your garbage disposal can loosen the seal of that epoxy, causing it to drop or separate from your countertop.
When you call Earl’s Plumbing, we’ll make sure to use the strongest, high-quality bonding agent we can to set the sink and keep it from falling out again in the future. Depending on the nature and location of your sink, we can also install additional supports such as sink clip studs or bar clamps if needed. Craftsmanship is key!
We believe that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, especially when it comes to water damage. We often recommend the whole-home smart systems to frequent travelers, landlords, and rental property owners, though any homeowner can benefit from them.
A Flood Stop system can prevent a lot of catastrophes, especially if you have appliances like water heaters or washing machines in upstairs locations.
Earl’s Plumbing also strongly encourages some sort of emergency water shut-off valve for water heater installations that are in the attic. Although water heaters are no longer allowed to be installed in attics, there are easily over a half-million homes in our service area with this setup. From about 2003 to 2014, “attic installation” was the most common water heater installation in Frisco, McKinney, Plano, and surrounding areas.
FloodStop valves are point-of-use water detection devices, meaning you can install them next to any water fixture in your home that you are concerned about and want to monitor.
FloodStop valves can be installed on the supply lines for:
-Water heaters
-Toilets
-Washing machines/Refrigerators & ice makers
-Dishwashers
-Sinks
A motorized ball valve will be installed on the supply line, which is connected to a highly sensitive water detection sensor. This sensor can detect the smallest drop of water, and will automatically trigger the ball valve to close. It will also sound an alarm to alert you of the problem.
The Moen Flo (and similar smart water monitoring and shutoff systems) is an advanced leak detector that safeguards your entire home. It’s an app-based program that senses how water flows throughout your water supply system and learns your typical water usage habits. If it detects anything unusual, it will automatically shut down the water, and you’ll get an alert on your phone.
It’s a small but mighty device that can detect the slightest changes in water temperature and pressure, alerting you to leaks that are as small as one drop per minute. Our team at Earl’s is happy to install these devices for you, or any other smart water monitoring and shutoff system you have previously purchased.
The installation time varies depending on the complexity of the installation and the type of toilet. On average, it takes between 1-2 hours to install a new toilet.
We handle all preparation, installation, and haul-away services, and ensure that your toilet is in peak working condition before we leave.
It is recommended to have your toilet serviced annually as part of a regular plumbing inspection to prevent any potential issues from becoming bigger problems.
Regular maintenance can also help prolong the life of your toilet.
Yes, we can repair a toilet that won’t stop running.
The issue may be due to a faulty flapper valve, float, or fill valve, which can be repaired or replaced.
If your toilet is constantly clogging, leaking, or experiencing frequent breakdowns, it may be time to replace it.
Additionally, if your toilet is outdated or consumes too much water, replacing it with a newer model can save you money on your water bill.
If your bathroom faucet is leaking, corroded, or has visible cracks, it may be time to replace it.
Additionally, if your faucet is outdated and no longer matches your bathroom decor, upgrading to a new faucet can enhance the overall look of your bathroom.
Yes, we can repair a leaking bathroom faucet. The cause of the leak may be due to a worn-out washer, O-ring, or cartridge, which can be replaced.
Our plumbers can assess the issue and provide a suitable repair solution.
We install and repair all types of kitchen faucets, including single-handle, double-handle, pull-down, pull-out, commercial-style, and more.
We can help you assess your current kitchen plumbing to ensure that you choose a fixture that will integrate seamlessly while providing the look and feel you desire.
If your faucet is leaking, dripping, or not functioning properly, it’s often more cost-effective to repair it rather than replace it.
However, if your faucet is old, damaged beyond repair, or you simply want to upgrade to a newer model, we can help you choose and install a new faucet.
The time it takes to install a kitchen faucet varies depending on the type of faucet and the complexity of the installation. Typically, it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours to install a new faucet.
We’ll do everything we can to minimize disruption to your home while prioritizing high-quality work with no cut corners. Before we leave, we’ll ensure that the entire system is working properly.
Yes, we offer a warranty on all our kitchen faucet installations and repairs.
The length of the warranty varies depending on the type of service and the product used. Contact us directly for more information.
The cost of kitchen faucet installation or repair depends on various factors such as the type of faucet, the complexity of the installation or repair, and the location of the property.
Please contact us for a free estimate.
The cost of garbage disposal installation or repair depends on various factors such as the type of disposal, the complexity of the installation or repair, and the location of the property.
Please contact us for a free estimate.
Yes, we offer a warranty on all our garbage disposal installations and repairs.
The length of the warranty varies depending on the type of service and the product used.
Ice Maker & Washer Valve Box Service includes inspection, diagnosis, repair, replacement, and maintenance of ice makers and washer valve boxes.
This covers both residential and commercial properties, ensuring the proper functionality and efficiency of these appliances.
It’s recommended to have your ice maker and washer valve box inspected at least once a year as part of a routine plumbing inspection.
Regular inspection helps identify potential issues early on and prevents costly damage or repairs in the future.
Common issues with ice makers include water supply problems, frozen lines, and faulty components.
Washer valve box issues often involve leaking valves, clogged drain lines, and damaged connections.
Some signs that your ice maker or washer valve box may need repair or replacement include:
Some signs that your ice maker or washer valve box may need repair or replacement include:
-Water leaks
-Poor water flow
-Ice maker not producing ice
-Washer not filling with water
If you notice any of these issues, it’s best to consult with a professional service provider to determine the appropriate course of action.
Signs of a slab leak include high water bills, low water pressure, hot spots on your floor, damp carpet or flooring, and the sound of running water when no fixtures are in use.
If you notice any of these signs, it’s best to call in a professional plumber.
Slab leaks can be repaired in various ways, depending on the location and severity of the leak.
In some cases, the damaged section of the pipe can be replaced. In more severe cases, the entire pipe may need to be rerouted.
The time it takes to repair a slab leak depends on various factors such as the location and severity of the leak, the condition of your plumbing system, and the repair method used.
Typically, it takes anywhere from a few hours to a few days to repair a slab leak.
Yes, we offer a warranty on all our slab leak repair services.
The length of the warranty varies depending on the type of service and the product used.
While some DIY enthusiasts may attempt to install or repair a shut off valve, it’s generally recommended to have a professional handle the job.
This ensures proper installation and optimal performance of the valve, while also minimizing potential issues or damage.
Regular inspection and maintenance of shut off valves can help extend their lifespan and ensure proper functionality.
It’s a good idea to have your shut off valves inspected at least once a year, or as recommended by a professional plumber.
Signs of a yard line leak may include wet spots or pools of water in your yard, a decrease in water pressure, or a sudden increase in your water bill.
Signs of a yard line leak may include wet spots or pools of water in your yard, a decrease in water pressure, or a sudden increase in your water bill.
A water meter leak occurs when water is leaking from the water meter itself or the pipe that leads to it.
This type of leak can also cause a sudden increase in your water bill.
One way to check for a water meter leak is to turn off all the water sources in your home and check the meter.
If it’s still running, it could indicate a leak.
Yard line and water meter leaks require specialized knowledge and equipment to repair properly.
It’s best to contact a professional plumber to assess and fix the issue.
The cost of repairing a yard line or water meter leak depends on various factors such as the location and severity of the leak, and the accessibility of the area.
Please contact us for a free estimate.
Drain leaks can be caused by various factors, including corrosion, tree roots, clogs, and wear and tear over time.
Drain leaks can be caused by various factors, including corrosion, tree roots, clogs, and wear and tear over time.
Signs of a drain leak include water damage or stains on walls or ceilings, musty odors, and the sound of running water when no fixtures are in use.
Signs of a drain leak include water damage or stains on walls or ceilings, musty odors, and the sound of running water when no fixtures are in use.
We repair drain leaks by identifying the source of the problem, which may require advanced tools and techniques.
We then make the necessary repairs using high-quality materials and parts.
The time it takes to repair a drain leak depends on various factors such as the severity of the leak, the location of the leak, and the condition of your plumbing system.
Typically, it takes anywhere from a few hours to a day to complete a drain leak repair.
Yes, we offer a warranty on all our drain leak repair services.
The length of the warranty varies depending on the type of service and the product used.
A hose spigot, also known as an outdoor faucet or hose bib, is a valve that allows you to connect a garden hose to your home’s water supply.
It should also protect your home’s water supply from backflow and freezing, with the proper care and maintenance.
We replace all types of spigots, including hose spigots, yard hydrants, and more. Only in rare cases will we repair a hose spigot, as it is typically more cost-effective to replace them than to attempt a fix.
Most hose spigots have a lifespan of about 5-7 years.
If your spigot is leaking, dripping, or not turning off completely, it’s important to have a plumber inspect it. Leaks and ruptures interfere with the freeze-proof design and backflow prevention features of water hoses, leaving your home at risk for damage.
Our plumbers can diagnose the issue and recommend the best course of action.
A yard hydrant is much like a hose spigot, except it connects directly to the water line underground. They are typically placed in areas of open land, such as pastures, fields, and gardens, or in structures like stables, greenhouses, and barns.
They may also be used if you have a salt tablet water softener system installed on your main water line.
A water filtration system is a system that removes impurities from your water, such as chlorine, sediment, and other contaminants.
Filtration systems use different methods to remove impurities, including activated carbon, reverse osmosis, and more.
The primary purpose of a double check valve (DCV) is to protect potable water supplies from contamination by preventing backflow.
It ensures that water flows in one direction and blocks contaminants from entering your drinking water supply.
A DCV consists of two independent check valves, typically spring-loaded, that operate in series.
These valves only allow water to flow in one direction, preventing backflow and contamination of your water supply.
Double check valves are commonly used in residential and commercial plumbing systems, including irrigation systems, water softener installations, and other applications where backflow prevention is essential for protecting potable water supplies.
It’s a good practice to inspect and maintain your double check valve at least once a year, or as recommended by a professional plumber.
Regular inspection and maintenance can help ensure the proper functioning and longevity of your DCV.
Some signs that your double check valve may need repair or replacement include visible leaks, unusual changes in water pressure, or a sudden drop in water quality.
If you experience any of these issues, it’s best to consult with a professional plumber for advice.
No, your double check valve must be installed or repaired by licensed professional as well as tested by licensed professional.
Earl’s can help you install, repair, replace, and test your double check valve.
Our team sees many unique plumbing issues in tubs and showers around Abilene.
The most common include:
-Leaks in the drain line or shower pan that lead to water damage
-Weak water pressure causing disappointing showers
-Hair, soap scum, and other materials causing stubborn clogs
-Worn-out showerheads, diverters, stems, and other fixtures
Issues with the temperature in your shower or tub are often related to water heater problems. But whatever the root cause of your problem, our team will work diligently to find a solution.
We see some toilets with tanks in too poor a state to repair. In many cases, the rubber parts are aged to a point that they’ve totally lost elasticity. When that happens, water will leak from the tank to the floor. That’s when we might consider the next level of toilet repair, a full tank rebuild.
That said, we typically recommend a full toilet replacement before a full tank rebuild repair. This is because older toilets often don’t work with universal parts, and the labor is a lot more time-consuming. However, our plumbers will always analyze the situation and recommend what’s best for your situation.
Over 90% of toilets that leak from the base happen as a direct result of bad craftsmanship or bad materials. We typically see this happen after a bad DIY, remodel, or handyman install.
Occasionally, the problem could have started years ago at construction and just hasn’t become visible until recently. Shoddy installation work is behind the majority of repairs of this type, most commonly with the flange, closet bolts, or even the flooring area. If you’ve been the victim of sorry plumbing work in the past, that’s why we’re here!
Poor flushing power is caused by low-quality parts and materials. We usually see these problems on builder-grade toilets and big box store toilets. How do you know if your toilet is poor quality?
-Weak flushing power
-It takes a long time to flush the toilet or requires multiple flushes
-The water won’t stop running after flushing
-You experience frequent clogs
The toilet brands we see the most problems with are ProFlo, Mansfield, Gerber, Western, and Vortens. Of course, we replace other brands as well, but these are the ones our customers have the most problems with. Every single day, our team encounters problems with these toilets. Though rare, we’ve even known them to flood whole houses.
Dealing with this kind of problem goes beyond a simple repair. In fact, there’s no repair for a bad toilet. The only remedy for this kind of performance is replacement—choosing a leading, high-quality brand like American Standard or Kohler.
At Earl’s Plumbing, we recommend Kohler. Kohler toilets are high-quality, have great flushing power, and are reasonably affordable compared to other models in their range. They get major kudos from us because of their features, like slow-close seats and “AquaPiston” flush technology. Taken together, the appearance, features, and cost make them a great value.
We stock the best-selling Kohler toilet in America, among other trustworthy brands. Of course, we’re also happy to install any toilet that you have already purchased. Keep in mind, however, that it’s actually harder for us to assemble, install, and level lower-end, generic-brand toilets. While it may be cheaper upfront to purchase a low-end toilet, their inferior quality means you’re likely to end up paying more in the long run.
We don’t include water shut-off valve replacement in the cost of our basic toilet installation, but we’re happy to add it if necessary. Although it’s usually recommended that this important part be replaced, our team would never make that a requirement as some other commission-type plumbing companies do. We’re glad to leave it alone as long as it is functioning properly and doesn’t leak during normal operation.
There are only a few other situations in which we would strongly suggest that you replace the shut-off valve:
-If your home is older than 12 years
-If the valve is poorly designed or made with inferior materials, like plastic threads or plastic stems
-If you have a PEX push & pull type valve
-If we do this work, we’ll adjust the price at the time of installation as a convenience to you.
A simple replacement of the same kind of faucet you already have can often be accomplished with common household tools, but you risk future water leaks if you don’t connect the new fixture correctly. While it’s possible to install a faucet yourself, there’s more to the installation process than you might think—especially if you’re changing the type, shape, or material of the faucet for a new kind!
Not every faucet is designed the same way, and there are some important design and functionality mistakes that you can avoid by working with a professional plumber. While our expert plumbers don’t provide faucet products for your home, we do know the mechanics of installing them flawlessly.
Once you purchase your new faucet—or before the purchase when you need to know what kind of faucet can be installed in your bathroom—our plumbers want the installation to go smoothly. This means being aware of the details of faucet installation and the specifics of the faucet you’ve chosen.
We recommend putting a mixture of hot water, baking soda, and vinegar into any slow drain. When mixed together, these ingredients form a powerful and safe scrubbing agent that can lift residue and break up clogs.
You can also try a plunger, though be careful not to use it too vigorously, as you could put unnecessary pressure on the pipes.
We recommend avoiding any chemical drain cleaners you can buy at the store because they are caustic. That means they eat away at your pipes. They can also be risky to your health and safety, causing chemical burns or reacting with other cleaning agents to form harmful gases.
At Earl’s Plumbing, we never cut corners, even on the most straightforward seeming jobs. Our certified plumbing technicians will examine the location and condition of the faucet and all connecting plumbing.
We’ll let you know if any modifications are necessary to fit the new faucet into place properly.
Next, we’ll shut off water to the kitchen and remove any water that remains in the faucet. We remove not just the old faucet and mounting hardware but also any leftover caulking. Once we install the new faucet, we’ll make sure the supply lines, drain lines, garbage disposal, and shut-off valves are all properly operating together. Finally, we’ll run some tests to ensure your new faucet is installed correctly and ready to use before we leave.
Many problems that occur with your garbage disposal are caused by items you put down the drain. While our disposals are designed to grind some of our food waste and carry it away, they aren’t prepared to handle just any item you decide to throw down the drain.
In fact, garbage disposal clogs are often caused by foods you might be surprised by:
-Eggshells
-Grease
-Starches (rice, potatoes)
-Coffee grounds
-Plastic
-Husks and peels
When ground up by the garbage disposal, these items can form clogs and jams in both the plumbing and the garbage disposal itself. You might need a professional to clear out the blockage with special tools. You also don’t want to damage the blades of the disposal further by trying to clear the obstruction.
If your garbage disposal forms a leak, it can be a real mess. Leaks are usually caused by watertight seals moving or wearing out.
The seals are meant to keep water and waste inside pipes, but they don’t last forever. Our plumbers know how to check each
O-ring, gasket, and seal for the leak. We make sure to reseal the area and stop the leaking substance. Since your garbage disposal can leak from the top, bottom, and even into your dishwasher, you need a pro to find and fix this problem.
If your garbage disposal won’t turn on, it likely has an electrical problem.
The reset button might have popped out, a plug could be loose, the circuit to the disposal could have been overloaded, or the motor could be dead altogether. Our plumbers can help pinpoint the problem and recommend the best option for repair. If needed, we might recommend an electrician as well.
If your disposal starts making loud or strange noises, the first thing you want to avoid is damaging the system by keeping it running. The most frequent noise homeowners hear is a grinding sound.
This is usually caused by an object stuck in the blades or another loose part of the system. It can be quite dangerous to deal with the sharp blades of a garbage disposal, so a professional is your best option.
Sometimes, food waste in your disposal can start to stink. The last thing you want is foul odors invading your kitchen!
Luckily, this problem can usually be solved by a DIY solution. Baking soda, vinegar, and hot water all partner to loosen and lift substances that are stuck in your disposal. If this tactic doesn’t work, you might need a plumber to take the system apart for deep cleaning.
Some homeowners insurance policies do cover slab leaks, and others don’t—but because this is such a costly repair, it’s worth calling your provider TODAY before any foundation or structural issues appear.
Ask your insurance provider the following crucial question:
“Does my policy have an endorsement to cover slab and foundation-related damages caused by water leaks from BOTH water lines and sewer breaks?”
Though almost half of the homeowners we work with don’t have this endorsement, it’s fairly easy and affordable (in general) to add it. For less than $80 a year in some cases, you could protect yourself against thousands of dollars in excavation or “access” work.
Bigger insurance companies that you know from TV and ads are typically the worst for not telling people to consider the slab leak or foundation endorsement. They also tend to pay out less in damages, cover significantly less, and/or deny more claims than smaller or local insurance companies. Before you encounter a major problem with major out-of-pocket expenses, get yourself covered!
Slab leak repairs or sewer line repairs can cost between $5,000 and $20,000, though the average tends to fall somewhere in between. This is just the range for the plumbing part of the job—not to mention any additional repair work that may be required.
That’s why it’s so important to ask about the policy endorsements on your homeowners insurance. No one wants to be stuck having to pay this amount out of pocket.
At Earl’s Plumbing, our experience is that about 40% of the calls we get about slab leaks turn out to stem from less complex (and costly) problems.
When you call us, we’ll ask multiple questions and perform a thorough evaluation to rule out other common issues, such as:
-Leaking toilets
-Stuck irrigation valves
-Issues with various shut-off valves
-Failed T&P valve on water heaters
-Hose spigot leaks
-Pool autofill valve malfunctions
Most of the time, it’s not immediately apparent whether or not a slab leak is present. That’s when we turn to other tests and observations designed to rule out other issues.
In order to do that, various water supply shut-off valves need to be accessible and in proper working order:
–Main Water Shut-Off Valve: Every single home in Texas has a main water shut-off valve, though you may not know where it is. If you didn’t know you had one, it could be in a state of disrepair, especially if your home was built before 2012. To avoid making any potential leaks worse, have this valve inspected before you use it.
–Irrigation Double Check Valve: Look for a rectangular box with a green lid near the street or your main water meter. Inside, you’ll find the irrigation double check valve. Having this valve in good condition is important so that we can isolate the irrigation system from your main water supply, ensuring the leak isn’t on the irrigation side.
–Water Heater Shut-Off Valve: We also need to isolate the water heater when we perform slab leak testing. A properly functioning valve on your water heater will help us completely shut off the water that goes to your water heater.
–Toilet Supply Shut-Off Valves: Also known as an angle stop, this valve is critical for times when toilets are leaking, overflowing, or constantly running. A poor quality or builder-grade angle stop could be behind a leak situation. We always recommend (though we don’t require) that our customers upgrade any plastic angle stops to metal, corrosion-resistant, quarter-turn type valves.
–Hose Spigot or Bib: The valve outside your home where you connect your hose needs to be leak- and drip-free while we’re testing for slab leaks. We’ll use one of your hose spigots to attach our pressure gauges to the water supply system, so we need at least one to be in good working order.
The main water line is the pipe that supplies potable water from the city’s or utility provider’s main line to a building or home. We sometimes call this the yard line in residential locations.
Technically, the main water line encompasses the water meter, which measures the water coming into your house, the pipe carrying water to your home, and all valves, joints, and connections in between.
Beyond your water meter, any problems are almost always your responsibility, NOT the utility company’s. That’s where Earl’s comes in! We’ll be happy to help find the source of the leak and repair your water meter to get your water turned back on and safely transported into your home.
The decision about whether to repair or replace your main water line depends on a few factors. At Earl’s Plumbing, our team can help you make this determination in the way that makes the most economical sense to you.
Factors that we will consider include:
-Whether or not we can determine the precise location of the leak
-If the line is traceable (which will depend on whether the line is made of metal or plastic)
-If there are any major obstructions such as trees or structures
-Whether you have ever had a yard line leak before
-The type of material your water line is made of and how old it is
Our team is available to answer any of your questions and hear your concerns at any time during the process. Contact us today for more information about main water line leaks.
Your water meter is usually located where the main water line to your home branches off from the municipal water line. Many water meters can be found near the street or sidewalk, covered by a metal lid.
Other water meters can be found on the side of your home, so take a look around if you’re not sure where your meter is located.
Inside the water line is a mechanical impeller that rotates as water pushes past it. The meter is designed to measure the flow rate of the water, based on the rotations of this impeller. This is how the city knows how much water enters your home, but they can’t tell how that water is used or if it’s leaking out before it reaches you!
Water meters can be designed differently, but you should be able to access yours fairly easily with a few tools. Once you’ve located the metal lid covering the meter, examine it to see what tools you’ll need to open it.
Some require only a screwdriver or a pair of pliers. Others require a special water meter key that can be purchased at most home improvement stores—it looks like a long rod with a “T” or a handle on one end.
Once the lid is opened, you’ll see the meter. It will either be a triangle or a black-and-white pinwheel. When the triangle or pinwheel moves, that means water is running through the pipes. Unfortunately, this will only tell you that water is running toward your home, not if any of the water is leaking on the way there.
This is where a professional plumber is essential. Our team brings specialized cameras and pressure tools to identify leaks in your meter or pipes that you can’t see.
Clogs in your sink can cause leaks that may necessitate drain pipe repairs. When you have a clog, water can’t flow down the drain line, causing it to sit in the plumbing lines and create excessive pressure and stress.
Over time, this pressure can lead to small fissures and cracks, where water will escape. Using store-bought drain-clearing liquids can worsen these cracks, since the chemicals in them are corrosive.
The only DIY methods we recommend for clearing sink clogs are physical removal (such as using a coat hanger) or a mixture of hot water, baking soda, and vinegar. If these don’t work, call your local plumber for professional drain repair or drain clog removal.
Hose spigots are simple in design, yet feature two important safety measures: backflow prevention and frost-proofing.
It’s important for both of these features to be 100% operational for a few reasons.
Backflow Prevention: Plumbing code requires that all hose spigots feature a backflow prevention device, also known as a vacuum breaker. This device prevents hose water from reaching your drinking water supply, which could be contaminated with yard waste, chemicals, animal droppings, and more.
By design, the vacuum breaker will allow a small amount of water to leak out briefly when you turn the spigot on or off. But it shouldn’t be leaking continuously or while in use. If any water comes out while you’re using the hose spigot, it is beginning to leak or fail.
Freeze-Proof Design: Hose spigots are designed to be installed at a slight downward angle so that they can self-drain after use. This prevents excess water from expanding and rupturing the pipe in the case of freezing weather. However, it can’t do this when a hose is connected to it. And unfortunately, plenty of homeowners leave the hose attached 24/7/365, throughout the winter months.
The freeze-proofing feature also won’t work when there is a leak or drip. Instead, the drip creates a small ice dam that backs up and freezes, ending in a rupture.
Hose spigot problems are usually related to either a leak or a complete rupture.
-Hose Spigot Leaks: Hose spigots have a limited life of about 5-7 years on average. But whether your spigot is older or younger than that, you’ve got a problem on your hands if you see any water coming out of the fixture where it isn’t supposed to. Even a slow drip can lead to a total rupture if not addressed in time.
-Hose Spigot Ruptures: This problem happens when a leak accumulates or water can’t fully drain from the spigot and eventually freezes. Frozen water expands within the copper pipe, then splits it. You probably won’t know you have this problem until you turn the spigot on again in the spring.
Watch for water emerging from brick, the point where your brick and slab meet, or from weep holes. If you see any of these, call a plumber before the water seeps into your home and damages the interior!
In some situations, homeowners can fix leaking pipes simply by tightening the slip nut or adding a patch. But if one thing goes wrong as you disassemble and attempt to repair a leaking sink, you could very quickly end up with a flood of water on your hands.
Besides, patches are often temporary band-aids to larger issues. Fix the problem for good and avoid the risk of water damage by calling the pros at Earl’s Plumbing first!
While hose spigots can sometimes be repaired, at Earl’s Plumbing, we find it is always better to replace them. Diagnosing and completing a hose spigot leak takes longer than replacing the fixture entirely, and it’s only a temporary fix.
Often, patched leaks only recur or create more leaks down the road. To get the maximum value out of your call to us, we stock various sizes of hose spigots so we can perform a replacement as quickly and efficiently as possible!
About 90% of our hose spigot replacement jobs are straightforward, simple, and easy. But we’re always prepared for the unexpected.
Typically, we’ll just shut off the water to your house and make a quick swap. You can expect some air in your lines afterward, so don’t be alarmed if the spigot sputters a little at first.
While rare, severely ruptured hose spigots sometimes break off inside walls. Our team has developed a proven system for handling these issues, oftentimes avoiding the need for cutting into the brick or drywall. We’ve saved Abilene homeowners thousands with this method!
Homes that were built before 1990 and some homes in rural areas may have had the entire line to their hose spigots hard piped or sweated. While this isn’t a basic repair, we’re prepared to handle it. We can brainstorm smart and effective ways to permanently repair this type of spigot and prevent any future leaks from happening.
While hose spigot replacements are usually straightforward for our team, there’s a lot that can go wrong, and a lot of unexpected complications that can arise once you get into the project. For that reason, we always recommend calling a plumber to help you out.
That said, if you do feel confident enough to attempt a DIY replacement, take it from us: you want to avoid wasting your money on any spigots from big box home improvement stores. They’ll either be poor quality or they won’t meet Abilene’s city code requirements. We don’t use these kinds of fixtures, and neither should you!
Yard hydrants function much the same as hose spigots, providing a water source for outdoor areas that need it. However, they look a little different and are usually placed in the ground instead of against a wall.
Yard hydrants connect to your water line below the ground and are operated using a lever-style handle that you lift or turn. They’re common in stables, pastures, greenhouses, barns, gardens, and even golf courses—anywhere where there’s an open area of land. They’re also used as garden hose connections in some homes with salt tablet water softener systems.
Saltwater, of course, isn’t suitable for watering grass, gardens, and other landscape features. It’s rare for hose spigots to be bypassed during the construction or water softener installation phase. So, adding a yard hydrant to branch off your main water line before the softener line could be your only option for fresh, clean water where you need it.
It’s hard to avoid a hose spigot leak for too long—they happen naturally as the fixtures age. You can take some preventative maintenance steps to prolong its life if you want to.
But it’s even more crucial to make sure you prepare them for freezing weather to avoid ruptures and water damage.
Disconnect all devices linked to the spigot, including garden hoses, pool fill lines, Y splitters, soaker hoses, irrigation connections, and hose manifolds.
Check for leaks and drips of any kind. If you find any, call Earl’s Plumbing for a replacement before the cold weather sets in.
Add a hard-shell, foamed cone hose spigot cover. They’re readily available at big box stores.
The first time you use your hose after freezing weather, connect it and let it fill up for a while before you spray. Wait 20-30 seconds before walking away to make sure that water isn’t leaking out of the wall under the spigot or near the slab.
A toilet leak from the base often occurs due to a damaged wax ring – the seal between the toilet base and the drainage pipe. The wax ring creates a tight seal that prevents water and waste from leaking out of the toilet and into the bathroom floor or subfloor.
Over time, the wax ring can become compressed, cracked, or dislodged, allowing water to leak out from the toilet’s base.
Another possible cause of a leak from the toilet base is a loose or damaged mounting bolt, which secures the toilet to the floor. If the bolt is loose or damaged, the toilet may shift or wobble, causing the wax ring to become misaligned and allowing water to leak.
There are several possible causes of a weak toilet flush:
-A clogged or partially clogged toilet trap can restrict the flow of water and reduce flushing power.
-If the water level in the toilet tank is too low, it can limit the amount of water available for flushing.
-A damaged valve can cause a weak or incomplete flush.
-The flapper, fill valve, or tank lever can wear out and affect the flushing power.
-Mineral buildup can occur in the toilet bowl, trap, or rim holes, restricting water flow.
We can perform a thorough inspection to identify the root cause of the problem and recommend the appropriate solution, which may involve cleaning the toilet components, repairing or replacing damaged parts, or adjusting the water level or flush valve.
We recommend American Standard. American Standard toilets are high-quality, durable, and efficient toilets.
Newer models feature a variety of innovative features and designs, including WaterSense certification for water efficiency, Comfort Height technology for added comfort and accessibility, and powerful flushing systems that ensure a clean and effective flush.
We stock the best-selling American Standard toilets in America, among other trustworthy brands. Of course, we’re also happy to install any toilet you purchase.
Yes, the type of faucet you choose for your bathroom or kitchen impacts the installation process and the finished product.
We install a deck-mounted faucet on the sink or countertop with concealed water lines and handles. This type of faucet is common for bathroom sinks and offers a classic and traditional look. A wall-mounted faucet is installed directly on the wall behind the sink with exposed water lines and handles are exposed. This type of faucet is popular for modern and contemporary bathroom or kitchen designs and offers a sleek and streamlined look.
The decision between a deck-mounted or wall-mounted faucet ultimately depends on your style and preferences as well as the layout and design of your bathroom or kitchen. Let us know what you have in mind and we can help you choose the right type of mount.
The most obvious sign of a leak would be water visibly coming up through the floor, appearing on a wall, or seeping out from under a cabinet. But more often than not, these other signs and symptoms will tip you off first.
A sudden increase in your water bill without an explanation
-Sounds of running water or dripping water when no faucets are turned on
-Damp or wet spots on the floor or carpeting
-A drop in water pressure
-A hot water heater that runs constantly
-The appearance of mold or mildew
-Cracks in walls or floors
-Hot spots on the floor
Homeowners insurance policies may or may not cover slab leaks, and it depends on the specific policy and the cause of the leak. Some policies may cover the cost of repairing the damage caused by the leak, while others may not cover any part of the repair costs.
It’s important to review your insurance policy and talk to your insurance provider to determine what is and is not covered. It’s also a good idea to add a slab leak endorsement to your policy to ensure that you are covered in the event of a slab leak. This endorsement typically adds additional coverage for slab and foundation-related damages caused by water leaks from both water lines and sewer breaks.
Our process of both detecting and ruling out other leak possibilities involves isolating different areas of the water supply, narrowing down the scope, and performing a multiple-system pressure test. This starts with some visual observations:
-Water meter
-Toilets & toilet tanks
-Interior faucets
-Water heater(s)
-Hose spigots
-Shut-off valves
Next, we’ll isolate the irrigation system from the main water line. We’ll check for movement on the meter, and if we see it, we’ll move on to isolating the plumbing in and underneath the house from the main yard line. We’ll also usually perform a static pressure test of the whole system, filling the home with water using a pressure gauge at the hose spigot for about 15-20 minutes.
Once we completely isolate the house, any drop-off in pressure indicates a leak. We may perform the test multiple times to determine whether the leak is on a cold or hot water line. Then, we can move on to locating the leak.
If you’re dealing with a leaky kitchen faucet, it can be tempting to try and fix it yourself. However, hiring a professional plumber is the best way to ensure the problem is resolved properly. A professional plumber can accurately diagnose the cause of the leak and determine the best solution for a quick repair.
They know how to fix all types of kitchen faucet leaks, whether worn-out parts, loose connections, or damaged pipes. You’ll have your faucet up and running in no time without the hassle that comes with trying to do it yourself. Remember, professional plumbers offer warranties on their work. So, the repair is guaranteed.
At Earl’s Plumbing, we follow a rigid step-by-step process for installing or replacing your kitchen faucet. When we arrive, a certified plumber will assess the location of the faucet and the condition of the existing plumbing. They will also determine if any modifications are necessary to accommodate the new faucet.
The plumber will shut off the water supply to the kitchen and drain any remaining water from the existing faucet. They will remove the old faucet and any mounting hardware or caulking. The technician will then install the new faucet and mounting hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. They will also connect any necessary hoses or water supply lines.
Finally, the plumber will test the new faucet for leaks and ensure that it is functioning properly. They will also clean up any debris or excess caulking from the installation.
It is normal for a garbage disposal to make noise. However, some noises indicate a problem with the appliance.
One of the most common reasons for a noisy garbage disposal is that something is stuck in the unit’s blades. A foreign object, such as a bone or utensil, lodged in the blades could cause the disposal to make a loud grinding or rattling noise. Turn off the unit and remove the obstruction with tongs or pliers.
Another possible reason for a noisy garbage disposal is that the unit’s blades or impeller have become worn or damaged. Over time, the blades or impeller can become dull or chipped, causing the disposal to make a loud noise when running. Loose or damaged mounting bolts or screws could also cause a noisy garbage disposal.
Drain clogs can result from various factors, including the buildup of hair, soap scum, grease, food particles, and foreign objects.
Inadequate pipe maintenance, aging pipes, or improper disposal of waste can also contribute to blockages.
If you experience slow-draining sinks, toilets, or bathtubs, recurring clogs, unpleasant odors, or gurgling noises coming from your drains, it may be time to schedule a professional drain cleaning service.
If you experience slow-draining sinks, toilets, or bathtubs, recurring clogs, unpleasant odors, or gurgling noises coming from your drains, it may be time to schedule a professional drain cleaning service.
The frequency of drain cleaning depends on your usage habits and the condition of your plumbing system.
It’s generally recommended to have your drains professionally cleaned every 1-2 years or as needed to address specific issues.
While some minor clogs can be cleared with a plunger or a simple drain snake, more stubborn blockages may require professional equipment and expertise. Hiring a licensed and experienced professional, like our team at Earl’s Plumbing, ensures a safe and effective solution for your drain cleaning needs.
Whatever you do, avoid store-bought liquid drain cleaners. These liquids are corrosive, both to your plumbing pipes and to you. If you have already used these products before scheduling service, we ask that you let us know so that our plumbers can take necessary safety precautions.
Professional drain cleaning, when performed by skilled technicians like our team at Earl’s Plumbing, is safe for your pipes.
We use appropriate methods and equipment tailored to your specific plumbing system, ensuring that your pipes remain undamaged during the process.
While drain cleaning can help prevent future clogs by removing buildup and debris, it’s essential to practice proper drain maintenance.
It’s essential to practice proper drain maintenance, such as disposing of grease, hair, and paper products responsibly, to minimize the risk of future blockages. Regular inspections and cleanings can also help keep your drains functioning optimally.
Drains can leak for a variety of reasons. Some of the most common causes of drain leaks include:
-Poor plumbing craftsmanship
-Loose or ill-fitting supply connections
-Misalignments caused by garbage disposal vibrations
-Accidental dislodging of pipe joints
-Corroded slip nuts, washers, or drain putty
-Pressure from sink clogs
-Gaps or fractures in the drain pipe
It’s important to address drain leaks promptly, as they can cause damage to your property and potentially lead to more serious plumbing issues if left unaddressed. An Earl’s Plumbing certified technician can accurately diagnose the cause of the leak and provide the necessary repairs to ensure your drain is functioning properly.
If you have an emergency drain leak, you first should turn off the water supply to the affected area. It will help prevent further damage and minimize the amount of water that could leak out.
If you don’t know how to shut off the water supply to a specific area, it’s best to turn off the main water supply to your home.
Once the water is controlled, contact Earl’s Plumbing as soon as possible. A drain leak can cause significant damage if left unaddressed, and a professional plumber can quickly assess the situation and provide the necessary repairs. Choosing a reputable plumber who has experience with drain leaks is important. While waiting for the plumber to arrive, you can try to contain the leak by placing a bucket or container underneath the affected drain to catch any water that may still be dripping.
Yes, a clogged sink drain can cause a leak. When a sink drain becomes clogged, water can back up and put pressure on the pipes, which can cause them to crack or even burst.
Over time, this pressure can cause the pipes to weaken and corrode, making them more susceptible to leaks.
If the clog is caused by something like a foreign object, it can obstruct the pipe, which can cause water to pool and eventually leak out of the pipe. Therefore, addressing clogged sink drains as soon as possible is important to prevent leaks and damage to your plumbing system.
A hose spigot, also known as an outdoor faucet or hose bib, is a valve located on a home’s exterior that allows access to a water supply for outdoor use. In other words, it’s what you connect your garden hose to!
Hose spigots can be relied on for about 5-7 years before they begin to age and wear, which can lead to leaks. They can also rupture during frost events if you leave the hose attached in below freezing temperatures.
Signs that your hose spigot may need repair or replacement include leaks, low water pressure, or difficulty turning the valve.
If your spigot is older or has not been maintained, it may also be more prone to rust, corrosion, or wear and tear.
Replacing a damaged or outdated hose spigot can improve water pressure, prevent leaks, and enhance the overall functionality of your outdoor water supply.
It can also help prevent costly water damage to your home or property.
A professional plumber can assess your home’s plumbing system and determine the best location for a new hose spigot based on your outdoor water needs.
A professional plumber can assess your home’s plumbing system and determine the best location for a new hose spigot based on your outdoor water needs.
A yard hydrant is an outdoor water supply similar to a hose spigot but typically includes a longer stem or pipe that extends below the frost line. It allows year-round use without the risk of freezing or damage to the plumbing system.
Yard hydrants are also common in farm & agricultural situations, or where salt tablet water filtration systems require teeing off the main line for fresh water outside.
If you need an outdoor water supply that can be used year-round, even in freezing temperatures or have a salt tablet whole-home water filtration system, a yard hydrant may be a better option.
A professional plumber can assess your outdoor water needs and recommend the best solution for your home.
No filtration system can remove all contaminants from water, but different types of filters can remove specific contaminants.
It’s important to have your water tested to determine which contaminants are present and which filtration system best suits your needs. Our team at Earl’s Plumbing can perform water quality testing to determine the best option for your home.
There are lot of common signs that you might have a slab leak. Those include but are not limited to:
· higher than normal water bills
· high water use notice from the utility provider
· hot spots radiating through the floor
· persistent hissing sounds of unknown origin
· continuous meter movement even when no fixtures are on
· new foundation issues such as cracks & doors sticking
· discolored (darker) grout in tiled areas
· wood flooring starting to lift or heave up
Here is the good thing to consider… about 40% of the potential “slab leak” jobs that we perform testing on end up NOT being a slab leak. Approximately 4 in 10 end up being something far less benign & less costly – toilet repair or replacement being the most common. This unfortunately includes the occasional requested second opinion jobs where another plumber has already diagnosed that you have a slab leak. Yes, there are ethical concerns within our industry primarily due to the adoption of 100% commission pay structures and/or sales incentives that many of our competitors have implemented. This has created an environment for fabricated or exaggerated diagnoses.
So, unless there is obvious water making it to the surface and causing home damage, then thorough testing & diagnostic is required before jumping straight to the leak location process & services.
In north Texas, the first thing to be aware of is that slab leaks typically only occur in homes that were constructed with copper water lines. Generally speaking, that is homes built before the 2015 – 2017 years. And of those homes with confirmed slab leaks, about 80% or more are located on the hot water side lines of the system.
Based on our findings when a repair is accessed and completed, the most common causes of a copper water line slab leak are:
1) water lines that are installed inside a concrete form or beam where sharp aggregate has created a pressure point over the years
2) water lines that were damaged or dented during installation creating a cavitation that erodes the interior (think Grand Canyon)
3) imperfections and lack quality controls in the manufacturing process that created pits & unevenness inside the interior of the pipe
4) improper installation at the time of construction where the lines were not properly protected
It should be noted that with the recent implementation and widespread use of PEX (plastic) water lines, slab leaks have become almost nonexistent in newer homes except in the rarest of cases. The reason is that PEX water lines are more durable and the weak points – the various line junctions (fittings) – are by code almost exclusively about the slab level. In other words, the weakest points are above the slab and inside the walls & ceilings. PEX is not without its own opportunities but at this time it is the superior plumbing product when it comes to moving domestic water throughout your home or business.
If you suspect that you might have a slab leak, the most common initial test that will confirm this is a “Static Pressure Test.” This is where we attach a pressure gauge to your domestic water system and determine the set water pressure for your home. From there, we turn the main water supply off (usually at the meter) and visually inspect to ensure that the pressure gauge maintains that pressure. Should it NOT, we evaluate the rate of fall to determine next steps.
In the event of a failed “Static Pressure Test” we then start to perform a series of tests that isolate the hot side from the cold side. In the event of a cold side leak, there are other diagnostics that would be done to include checking to make sure the toilets are not the culprit, which surprisingly is the most common “slab leak” false alarm. With all testing & diagnostics, it is critical that all of the homes water shutoff valves are fully functional. Especially the toilets and the main “Whole House Shutoff Valve.” For clarification, we are NOT referring to the meter box at the street.
Upon completion of the initial testing, should a slab leak be confirmed, then we would move to the far more difficult task of “Slab Leak Location.” This process requires some very expensive and specialized equipment as well as some rare and unique skill sets that only come from prior leak locating experience. The point being, it is a learned skill that comes from experience and not everyone can do it properly due to equipment cost and limited exposure.
After initial testing has confirmed a slab leak, the next step is locating the exact location of the leak. This is a specialized & learned skill that comes with many hours of experience and requires some very specialized equipment & techniques.
For brevity sake, we use a specialized listening device with a specialized microphone to identify the loudest “points” on a particular line. Once that is identified, we use another specialized device that emits a radio frequency and allows us to locate the exact location(s) of the water line(s) below the slab. The line locations are marked on the floor with tape and then another specialized microphone is used to listen through the slab for the various sounds made by the leak – usually just a pin hole. On the more difficult locations, compressed non-flammable gases are integrated into the water lines to create a different and more distinctive sound.
There are many variables in the “leak location process”, and it is not an exact process. Success depends on experience. Ultimately, we want to be within 2-3 feet of the exact leak location. Once that leak location is identified, then we can determine the best plan to build an estimate for the repair. Sometimes there may be more than one repair option provided, with slightly different costs and varying levels of normal life disruption, clean up and/or reconstruction.
Once the leak location is identified, an estimate will be created to make the repair. Usually there is only one realistic & viable repair option. However, on occasion there are multiple options to consider. If so, there will be different prices and likely different overall experience levels. The experience level may vary from relative seamlessness (tunnelling) to loud but controlled chaos and a lot of dust (slab penetration). The most common repair options for the North Texas areas include the following:
· Tunnel Excavation – In North Texas, this is by far the most common repair option with the least amount of life disruptions. It is especially prevalent in the outlying DFW suburbs where larger two-story homes are more common. The compacted clay soil that is prominent in the DFW area make this repair option feasible and common. Tunnelling accounts for well over 90% of all slab leak and sewer line repairs in the North Texas area.
· Slab Penetration w/ Tunnelling – this is done on the interior of the home when tunnelling from outside is not a viable option due to distance or expense. It also becomes more practical if there is significant interior home damage that require repairs (flooring, cabinets, etc). This options creates the most life disruption and a considerable amount of clean up after the repair. With most slab penetrations there is usually some sort of excavation (tunnelling) required because of the location (cabinets, staircase, inside a beam, etc). This option accounts for less than 10% of the repairs in North Texas.
· Slab Penetration w/ Spot Repair – Similar and in conjunction with above. Same process with significantly less digging. This accounts for less than 1% of all repairs because it is rare that a leak is this easily accessible. Factor in the fact that many slab leaks are where the water line is passing through a concrete support beam and to bypass this concrete beam to prevent a similar future occurrence requires significant excavation.
· Water Line Reroute – also done from inside the home, this is the least likely option of all the repairs. This is really only a realistic or feasible option when the home is a single story. With most North Texas homes being two stories and other various construction standards, this repair option accounts for less than 1% of all repairs completed in North Texas.
This is one of the most common questions we get over the phone. Unfortunately, it is impossible to answer until the leak is confirmed and then the location is identified. It is super important to note that just because you think you have a slab leak – even if you have been told you do by another plumbing company – that is not always the case. About 40% of the potential slab leaks that we test for end up not being a slab leak at all. And sadly, about 1 in 5 (20%) of the “Request a Second Plumbers
Opinion” results in not finding a slab leak despite the other company already providing a multi thousand dollar repair estimate.
The largest portion of the cost to repair a slab leak is for “access.” That is an insurance term that put simpler means the excavation, tunnelling and/or concrete busting and the various corresponding backfills for each. Because the most common repair type is “Tunneling” to the repair spot, the bulk of the cost is calculated into the excavation. Other factors and variables that may be included are the digging conditions, concrete busting & repair, chipping of concrete if the leak is inside a beam, extra footage to bypass & route around a concrete beam, etc.
As of this writing (June 2024) and using the last 40 North Texas slab leak repairs completed in 2024, the average cost was $5,970. That includes a low of $3,100 and a high of $11,300. Only 3 of the last 40 repairs have exceeded $10,000. The most expensive slab leak repair ever recorded in our books was $15,850 in July of 2022 and it was an absolute nightmare of a job. Hopefully, this helps set some expectations and allows for comparison with our competitors. As a point of reference, the plumbers at Earl’s Plumbing do NOT get paid via sales commission. This typically makes our final price considerably less (thousands) than most competitors.
Based on our experience and conversations, the vast majority of regular homeowner’s policies do NOT cover repairs for slab leaks or any other work below the slab OR in the yard. Because slab leaks (and sewer line breaks) are below the slab, the answer is NO, a basic homeowners insurance policy does NOT cover the cost of a slab leak repair.
HOWEVER, many (but not all) policy providers may offer a supplemental policy or an addendum that is commonly referred to as a “Slab Endorsement.” When it is offered, despite the fact that it is relatively inexpensive, it is rarely suggested or explained by your selling agent.
The “Slab Endorsement” addendum has a limited scope but will cover the most expensive aspects of any sub-slab work. The endorsement will typically cover the testing and the access (excavation) for slab leak repairs, sewer line break repairs and foundation repairs (i.e., adding piers and leveling). This supplemental policy is something homeowners should strongly consider adding to their policy due to the continually expanding and contracting clay soils of North Texas.
Yes, usually and in most cases. The vast majority of cities in Collin and Denton Counties require a permit and a city inspection for a slab leak repair. The cost and variations of what is expected during the repair and inspection process varies city to city. Permit fees can range from as little as $40 (Frisco & McKinney) to over $400+ dollars (The Colony & Anna). Sometimes it will take 10 minutes to pull a permit (Frisco), while other cities it may take multiple steps and several hours over the course of the day (McKinney) for each permit pulled.
ALL cities require that a licensed plumber perform the repair work AND that the copper line repairs are made with “Silver Soldering Rods” NOT the basic sweat solder that is typically used for copper lines. Silver Solder Rods (actually made of the precious metal Silver) require a special torch, a higher temperature, and different technique, and thus, results in a much stronger and longer lasting repair. Please note that “Push-To-Connect” fittings such as the brand called “Sharkbite” are absolutely forbidden and by code cannot be concealed under the slab or even behind walls…but we see this all the time and is a common source of mystery leak repairs.
Some cities (Plano & McKinney) require a signed, certified & stamped civil engineering report when access tunnels or excavations exceed 5 feet or more. This of course adds to the final cost but provides you with a peace of mind knowing that the backfill was properly performed and compacted.
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Earl’s Knows Texas
Our mission is not only to be Texas’ best plumbers and HVAC techs but also to be a positive presence in our communities. From humble beginnings to 4 locations, we are proud to call Texas our home.